Ice Warrior

Purposeful, worthwhile, extreme expeditions

9th May 2009

Woke at 05:30, showered closed bag and checked out of hotel. Went to buy coffee and Boston Creams for all (Just coffee for me). 06:30 left for airport for early checking as we had 14 bags of gear and food. Boarded a First Air flight to our first hop, Iqaluit on the southern shores of Baffin Island. Fittingly First Air has a polar bear painted on the tail of their aircraft. 2 hr lay over in Iqaluit, spent looking at the local soap stone carvings. Apparently Iqaluit is one of the best place to find exceptional pieces of Inuit carvings. Iqaluit temperature at mid day -10C. According to Paul (next to me on plane) it gets to <-30C in the winter in Iqaluit and with wind chill colder than that... 

Then a turbo prop via Nanasivik to Resolute Bay. The stop over was only 30 minutes. In Resolute Bay we gathered our gear and headed to the hotel (-16C and beautiful sunny weather). Dinner was ribs & salad after which we went for a walk around Resolute. 
Resolute is a small village and given that it was well after 9pm very quiet. The sun does not set, hence it was still light. The most striking find on the walk around town were several Polar Bear skins stretched out to dry outside a few houses, we also came across two seal skins, stretched to dry and a headless seal still lashed to a sledge. The realities of indigenous peoples rights, which seem very academic in Brussels, were suddenly in sharp focus (hopefully the photos too). 

Brendon Grunewald 

10th May 2009

After getting most of the gear and food sorted and packed, it was decided to spend another night in the Hotel at Resolute so that everyone could rest out and be fresh for an early morning start in the morning. 

Food mainly consisted of freeze dried packs. Breakfast was egg and bacon (just add boiling water), Lunch was nuts and dried fruit and dinner was almost without exception some form of chicken and rice dish (just add boiling water). Gear was checked to ensure everyone had Base Layer, Mid Layer and Outer Layer gear as well as down jackets etc.  In the kitchen at the hotel is "Randy" the famous Arctic chef. Randy came to Resolute from Barbados many years ago and has kept many an expedition fed over the years.

Brendon

11th May 2009

We set off after lunch at approximately 1330. It's always good to get going despite leaving behind the warmth and comfort of South Camp Inn and civilisation.

We were three fully laden kommatiks (Inuit wooden sledges about 15 feet in length) towed by three snowmobiles. Six people, comprising two photographers, two wildlife enthusiasts and two leaders; award winning cameraman Ian McCarthy and myself.

Our expedition was aiming to reach Freeman's Cove on Bathurst Island where we were hoping to immerse ourselves in the Arctic wilderness.

Two hours into our journey found us on the edge of Brown Island stopped for a second time for comfort break and a bit of afternoon tea. We were slowly packing up to get going again when Ian noticed a polar bear on the horizon and coming our way.

It was a young male, beautifully conditioned and well fed but with distinctive scaring above the ears on both sides of his head. He ventured really close to us tasting and sniffing the air to sample the various smells we were giving off. It was a magnificent magical moment, one which I couldn’t have arranged if I had tried. He was well behaved and readily backed off when spoken to.

Eventually in the sunshine we said goodbye and went on our way. As we headed north past Brown Island the weather closed in on us making visibility bad and delivering the odd flurry of sharp, icy snow in our faces. This made route finding through difficult and after 22km and several near misses with the skidoos I decided we should retreat to camp just off Brown Island as it was still closer than our next waypoint Baker Island. It was also getting late 1930 hrs.

By the time we had set up camp and settled down on the sea-ice it was 1230 and we were all tired and exhausted....and anticipating what the next day had in stall for us.

Jim McNeill

12th May 2009

We were still excited from the previous day where "Eagle-eyed" McCarthy had spotted our first bear not 2 hours from Resolute.  Everyone was delighted that Ice Warrior had delivered so early on in this adventure. With our appetites whetted off we went to seek treasures on the hills of Brown Island. Five of us travelled by foot to discover ptarmigan (an Arctic bird of the grouse family). Unfortunately they were not to be seen but there was evidence that a pack of five had fed themselves on plant life on the eastern side of the island.

Back in camp I believe we have all settled into the routine of maintaining warmth and cleanliness in these minimal temperatures. Each time we bed down for the night we eagerly await to see what a new dawn brings.

Pauline Southam

13th May 2009

This morning we spotted an arctic fox close by and a few polar bears on the horizon. We decided to camp 2 more nights here and explore the island in more detail. In all we saw ptarmigans, gulls and various polar bears and seals at a distance.

14th May 2009

Everyone lay in a little this morning.  After breakfast the weather improved to be sunny and warm.  Jim & Ian organised a photo competition of sea ice features so everyone set off taking pics in various directions.  After lunch (warm sausages, rye bread & cheese) we set off for a trip round Brown Island. On the far side we spotted a flock of ptarmigan (rock) and stopped to take photographs.  Ian herded them closer so we could get better pics then on and around the island and back to camp where Jim had soup waiting.  Another great day in the Arctic!

Brendon

15th May 2009

9.00am - Everyone started to stir!  It is quite amazing how well the team sleeps – it must be due to the excellent nightcaps that are served in ‘the boys’ tent.

9.45am – Breakfast of blueberries and granola.  This is a favourite with everyone.  Several cups of tea and coffee later a group discussion settles the plans for the day – break camp and move onto Baker Island.  Pauline, Merel and Cheryl packed their tent very efficiently whilst the boys discussed the meaning of life (in the Arctic!) – the girls then sat and watched them dismantle theirs!  We were all packed up within a short period of time and by 1.00pm we waved goodbye to our Arctic home and set off for Baker Island.

Cheryl rode in one of the sledges – not to be recommended – but her choice!  The day closed in quite quickly and the snowmobile drivers really battled to see and to pick out a ‘smooth’ route.  The clear, flesh show which lay as far as the eyes could see told tales of passing wildlife – polar bear mother and two cubs, large male wolf, Arctic fox. The group is looking forward to seeing the wildlife and eagerly scans the horizon for moving shapes and darkened areas.  Ian has the best eyesight and seems to be able to identify animals that are miles away!

At about 5.30-6.00pm we settled on a flat area and struck camp.  All helped to put up tents and within an hour a new ‘home’ had been created – table and chairs erected – cooker lit.  What more could we want (besides a hot shower, that is!)  Supper was eaten outside but hot chocolate/brandy and coffee/ whisky with Brendan’s Belgium chocs was taken in ‘the boys’ tent.  The air soon filled with laughter as stories of past adventure and future dreams swirled around, fuelled by the alcohol of course!

As the party broke up, members drifted off to sleep-bags with thoughts of a new day and new adventures in their heads.  What will Saturday 16th bring??

Cheryl Evans

16th May 2009

Up at about 9.00am and rearranged men’s tent to accommodate table and chairs, breakfast and coffee/tea around the table where Jim synchronised the email.  Several people also made phone calls home with the sat phone.

In order to make the travel to Bathurst more manageable Jim and Brendon set out of skidoos to recce a route from south of Baker Island to Bathurst.  Going was relatively easy and we were able to travel at up to 60km/h.  en route one polar bear was spotted moving south towards Baker Island.  Reached Bathurst Island near Cape Evans and crossed over to Freeman’s Cove.  Stopped to spot huts and then headed back to camp to pack up and move to Bathurst Island with the rest.

Arrived at Bathurst Island and opened up the cabins.  Jim cooked up a special meal, spicy salami spaghetti which went down a treat. (75º06’51.4”N 97 º58’37.4”W)

Brendon

17th May 2009

All up soon after 8.00am and after a prolonged discussion on the relative warmth of tent against hut, 3 skidoos set out at approx. 10.00am to recce the area.  Jim and Pauline headed south and east while the others headed north up the coast to the head of Freemans Cove via a large lake.  Gray weather with low cloud in the morning which gradually cleared to sun by mid afternoon.  Little sign of wildlife around initially but the northern party came across a pack of 14 ptarmigan.  Merel took some very good photographs.  Also found droppings and hair of muskox but no sign of the animals that left them.  A beautiful evening with golden sun and a lovely chill con carne.  Everyone tired after a day out in the open air.  A very good day.

Pauline

18th May 2009

We were all up by 7.15am today as members of the team were cold and Jim needed to light the stove and start breakfast----pancakes with maple syrup. Fantastic! It was quite clear that we would not be venturing very far today as the wind was gusting and it was bitterly cold -28 degrees! We all tried to stay warm whilst reading our books. It is not easy to turn over the page with gloves on though! Merel and Pauline went for a walk and found wolf prints! We all rushed out-----well rushing isn't easy-----to view the find. Now we need to find the living proof.  As we read and slept the day away Jim as always provided nourishing meals and kept our inner warmth in place! Well done Jim!

Brendon

19th May 2009

Headed south west from the huts today toward a series of valleys which may have musk ox, arctic fox, arctic hare etc. After travelling for several hours we reached the furthest point on top of a hill where one of the snow mobiles stopped working (suspected fuel pump failure). As a result Ian and Jim ferried the 3 ladies back to camp on the remaining snow mobiles before returning to pick up the broken snow mobile and Brendon who remained behind. The snow mobile could not be repaired in the field and thus needed to be towed back to the huts, arriving after 10PM. 

Brendon

20th May 2009

Most of the team headed out to walk in one of the near by valley's just north of the huts, while Jim and Brendon remained at camp and started to sort out some of the gear for the next days trek back toward Resolute via Intrepid Bay. The team did not spot much wildlife, but on a trip after dinner to photograph an ice pond, Ian and Merel returned with some interesting photos of bubbles and cracks in ice, as well as some photos of an Arctic Fox.

Brendon

21st May 2009

Set off at 0910.  Reached Intrepid Bay 1525 after stopping numerous times en route to watch for bears.  We saw one in the distance.  All but Jim & Pauline, who needed to mind the camp from bears set off to go further into Intrepid Bay and Coal River to look for the 3 musk Ox which reputedly live in the area.  Alas they returned 30 minutes later disappointed at the fact the sea ice rubble was too difficult to penetrate at the mouth of Intrepid Bay.  We resorted to silly games and dancing in white out conditions.

Jim

Friday 22nd May 2009

Up at 4am to pack camp and head to Resolute Bay. Weather was not ideal but we made it to Resolute before breakfast, with time to unpack, sort the gear and have a much needed shower / bath before lunch. That afternoon we went to the other side of Resolute Bay to see the old Thule site and returned to the South Camp Inn hotel for Arctic Char for dinner and then bed.

Brendon

23rd May 2009

Up at 4am for a 06:30 flight from Resolute Bay via Nanasivik to Iqaluit and then on to Ottawa and our connection that evening to Europe. A day in the plane thus and a chance to catch up on some sleep in a vertical position.

Brendon

Pauline S -

Overall Experience:  Life Changing – totally amazing – felt sorry to be back in ‘reality’!!!!!!!!  100% total satisfaction.

Leaders: Jim McNeill and Ian McCarthy were 100% professional at all necessary times and can honestly say that I felt 100% safe at ALL times.
I did not doubt the journey choices Jim made were absolutely correct at the chosen times.

Merel den D -

Overall Experience:  Fantastic!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  I really enjoyed it!  I just want to go back!

Leaders: What shall I say?.. They were great!

Brendon G

Overall Experience: The trip was well organised and had a good mix of adventure and comfort level. I’d certainly recommend this trip for people looking for a polar experience.

Leaders: Jim’s experience in the field gives one a solid sense of comfort and underlying confidence, something that’s essential on a trip like this. Ian’s eagle eye and knowledge of the natural environment is exceptional, his helpful nature was extremely well appreciated.